Simply search this page for keywords such as “error message” or “turn off system” to find answers (CMD + F on a Mac or CTRL + F on Windows) 🔎 alternatively, use the links below to get you to the right place.

Find your issue 👇

Important notice

Systems provided by nohma.com should be exclusively installed by qualified professionals. The guidance presented on this page is intended solely for the customers of nohma.com and aims to assist system installers. For individuals opting to install their system without the assistance of a qualified professional, this guidance is intended solely for diagnostic purposes. Any corrective actions should only be undertaken with the supervision and expertise of a qualified professional. Nohma.com assumes no liability for damages or injuries resulting from the improper installation or use of systems.

Using your system 💻

Should I turn everything off when not using the system?

No. Unless you’re planning to leave your van completely stationary for a really long time (2+ months) it is better to ensure your system is turned on and charging. The chargers in your system all contain smart profiles that will keep your batteries healthy and always ready to go!

However, you should turn off inverters and 12V loads when the vehicle is out of action. This is especially important if the vehicle is unlikely to generate any charge from solar, as the standby power usage over long time periods will gradually flatten your battery.

For very long periods, if you have a lithium battery, you may need to put it into storage mode. Consult the product manual for instructions explaining how to do this.

Batteries 🔋

My leisure battery is flat and I haven’t been using it, whats gone wrong?

This is almost always caused by a load such as an inverter or inverter/charger being left on for long periods of time with either the system isolator not turned OFF or with the van not receiving charge from solar, shore or B2B. Just like most domestic appliances, your inverter or inverter/charger still uses power even when there are no loads connected to it, much like a TV in standby mode.

The fix here is simple – turn your inverter or inverter/charger OFF when you’re not using it for prolonged periods to allow your system to recharge.

My starter battery is flat / my van won’t start

Almost always this problem is caused by one of two things:

1. If you have a B2B, carefully check you have implemented the settings we provided in your installation guide. The default settings for the Orion battery to battery chargers is to act as a power source and not a charger. This means the charger will by default completely flatten your starter battery!
2. Not got a B2B in your system or your settings are correct? If your starter battery is exhibiting signs of failure, such as difficulty starting the vehicle, it could be due to age-related degradation. A local garage can conduct diagnostic tests to evaluate the condition of your starter battery and advise on whether replacement is necessary.

Can I trickle charge my starter battery from my leisure battery?

Yes, you can trickle charge your starter battery from your leisure battery using your Victron Energy MultiPlus. By running a 6mm² / 10AWG cable from the dedicated trickle charger port on the MultiPlus to your starter battery positive terminal, you can ensure your starter battery stays charged. This port provides a 1A output at a voltage 0.5 to 0.75V below the leisure battery voltage, and it is always on. For safe operation, remember to include a midi fuse holder and a 40A midi fuse in this setup. This solution is ideal if you have a non-isolated B2B or no B2B in your system.

However, if your leisure battery and MultiPlus are not consistently receiving enough charge, this constant trickle charging can drain your leisure battery over time. This can lead to insufficient power for your leisure battery’s primary functions and potentially leave you without enough power to start your vehicle. To prevent this, ensure you allow your vehicle to re-charge from solar or shore hookup when stationary for long periods of time.

AGM Battery Maintenance

To keep your AGM battery in good health, it’s crucial to keep it fully charged whenever possible, especially before leaving your vehicle stationary for an extended period. Regularly check your battery’s charge level to ensure it doesn’t drop below 10.5V, as discharging to this level can cause significant damage and shorten its lifespan. If you’re concerned about your battery’s condition, it’s best to have it tested. While we’re happy to help, many local battery shops offer free testing services, making it a convenient option for a quick check-up. Keeping your AGM battery well-maintained ensures reliable performance and longevity, so make periodic checks part of your routine maintenance.

Battery Testing and Warranty Policy

In the event that you believe there is an issue with your battery, we recommend taking it to a local battery shop for initial testing. This can provide a preliminary assessment of the battery’s condition and help identify any potential issues. Should the battery require further inspection under warranty, it will need to be returned to us for comprehensive testing. Please note that only manufacturing defects are covered under our warranty policy. If a battery is shown to have been over-discharged or otherwise damaged due to misuse or neglect, we will not be able to cover this under warranty. You can read more about this in our Terms & Conditions.

Battery chargers 🔌

Have a question about a battery charger? Contact your engineer who will be able to help, and we can add it to this page to help future customers.

Battery to battery chargers (B2B) 🚐

Where is the D+?

Unfortunately this is different for not only every vehicle, but often for each year of manufacture too. Subsequently, it’s very difficult for us to provide exact instructions for this. However, to find the D+ terminal on the fuse board of your van, follow these steps:

• First, consult your van’s manual or wiring diagram to locate the fuse board and identify the D+ circuit. The D+ wire is usually connected to the vehicle’s electrical system to indicate when the alternator is charging.
• Look for a wire labelled D+, often blue in colour, or check for labelling on the fuse board itself.
• If your fuse board has a relay for split charging or similar functions, the D+ connection might be part of this relay’s wiring.
• If you’re unsure, using a multimeter to test for voltage that appears only when the engine is running can help confirm the D+ wire.

Once identified, you can then simply connect your B2B remote cable to this same terminal, which will allow your battery to battery charger to distinguish when the alternator is running.

Mercedes Sprinter D+ location (under driver’s seat)

On most Mercedes Sprinters, the D+ signal can be found under the driver’s seat within the high bank of connectors (EK1).

To locate it:

• Refer to the image below – the D+ connection is highlighted for clarity.
• Remove the driver’s seat base cover to access the electrical junction box.
• Identify the EK1 terminal block – a cluster of three connectors.
• The D+ wire is typically the yellow and blue wire on the right-hand side of these three cables.

My battery to battery charger is connected but not working

The most common cause of Victron battery to battery chargers not working is caused by a missing remote terminal (the little green terminal with a black loop of cable). If this is disconnected or the remote connector wire loop is missing, the controller will not function. However, in some advanced systems, the remote on/off connector can be connected to an external device, a switch, a relay, or another type of external control, like a battery BMS system.

My B2B charger is getting hot when charging

The Victron DC-DC chargers, are designed to operate safely in conditions up to 55°C. However, the internal components of the charger can get significantly hotter than the ambient temperature, especially under heavy load or continuous operation. The charger can reach 60°C or even 70°C however the charger is programmed to cut off or reduce its output above this point. The perceived temperature of the charger is further exacerbated due to metal electrical objects feeling hotter than they actually are due to the high thermal conductivity of metal. This phenomenon is why metal objects, even when only slightly warm, can feel uncomfortably hot to the touch. That being said, if you believe the temperature of the charger is exceeding its normal operational temperature, turn your system off, disconnect the charger from the starter battery and contact your engineer.

Solar ☀️

The solar cable won’t fit into the PV isolator terminals

The terminals on PV isolators are very tight, but they are designed to be used with the cable we include in your system. When you cut the solar cable, DO NOT be tempted to twist the exposed cable, as this makes the diameter larger and difficult to fit into the terminals.

If you are still struggling to fit the cable into the terminal, we recommend adding a yellow forked lug to the cable and inserting it into the isolator terminal, as illustrated below.

My charge controller shows 0V or 0W, why is my solar not working?

So first question, has it ever worked?

If NO, check if you have plugged the cables from your solar panels into the PV isolator or charge controller the wrong way round. Because solar cable is only supplied in black, it is easy to confuse which are the positive and negative cables when they enter the vehicle. This is often the cause of this issue.

The charge controllers we provide are protected against reverse polarity, so please, even if you think you are right, turn off the PV isolator, swap the “SOLAR-IN” cables on the solar charge controller and check if this resolves the issue.

If YES, check the fuses before and after the solar charge controller and the MC4 inline fuses on your solar array (if included). Next, check that each connection is tight. Vibration from driving can loosen connections and cause cables to become displaced.

Still not working? Is there any visible damage to your solar panels or connected cables? It is not unheard of for low lying branches to damage these components.

Finally, if your batteries are at 100% state of charge, the charge controller or app may display 0W or a very low wattage value. When your batteries are fully charged or very close, the charge controller will only display the wattage it passes into the batteries even if your vehicle is in full sun.

Can the cables in and out of my isolator switch be either way around?

Similarly, can the solar array and solar charge controller be the other way around with regard to the PV isolator?

This question may arise if the position of your PV isolator and charge controller is different to that shown in out wiring diagrams. Quite simply, the positive wires must use the positive +1 terminals and negative wires must use the -1 terminals. Which positive cable enters which +1 terminal does not matter, the PV isolator simply makes and breaks the positive +1 connections and negative -1 connection at the turn off the switch.

Why is my solar array not generating as much power as expected, or less than before?

Solar output varies significantly depending on your location, time of day, season, and other environmental factors. Panels mounted flat on your roof further restrict their output compared to those mounted at an optimal angle. Thankfully, all of our systems are designed to account for these variations and losses. When you check the figures in your Victron Connect app, you might wonder why your 300W panel shows only 100W. This is normal due to these influencing factors and because the app shows real-time power draw, which can fluctuate based on current conditions.

Your solar system is perhaps the most complex to understand. The “Status” page in the Victron Connect app covers live data, showing the power being drawn from your panel in real-time. On an average good day, it typically maxes out at around two-thirds of your solar panel’s rating (e.g., 200W for a 300W panel). As your battery approaches full charge, the solar output will naturally slow down or even stop, which is perfectly normal. The “History” page is really helpful, providing lots of useful information. If you see three colours in the bar chart, it means your battery has finished charging. For ‘today,’ it might only show one colour if charging hasn’t reached 100%. Seeing fewer than three sections in the bar chart indicates a power deficit, meaning you’re using more power than the solar has generated. Checking this regularly can help you get used to and manage your van’s power system effectively.

How to install a rubber well nut for a solar bracket?

Rubber well nuts provide a robust, waterproof mechanical connection to attach solar panel brackets to the roof of your vehicle. However if they are overtightened, installed on an angle or installed in a poorly cut and cleaned hole they will not work. Simply follow the below process to achieve the best results.

1. Mark the Position
   • Determine and mark the position of the bracket on the roof of the vehicle.
   • Mark the centres of the holes for drilling.
2. Drill the Holes
   • Drill a pilot hole at each marked centre.
   • Follow up by drilling a 9mm hole at each pilot hole.
3. Prepare the Holes
   • Clear all swarf, burrs, and sharp edges from the holes using a deburring tool or similar.
4. Insert the Well Nut
   • Insert the well nut into each hole with the top hat facing upwards (towards the sky).
5. Position the Bracket
   • Place the solar bracket over the well nuts, ensuring the top hat (flanged portion) of the well nut is compressed.
6. Insert the Bolt
   • Gently insert the bolt and washer through the hole in the solar bracket and into the well nut.
7. Tighten the Bolt
   • Slowly tighten the bolt using a torque wrench.
   • Set the torque wrench to 2.0 to 2.5 Nm. This is broadly equivalent to tightening by hand without a tool.
   • Tighten the bolt to this torque value to ensure the well nut is securely fastened without being damaged.
8. Inspection
   • Ensure that the well nut is compressed evenly and has not been damaged during the installation.
   • Check each fixing is water tight by covering the roof in water and checking for drips inside. Placing a piece of paper below each bolt can make it easier to identify leaks.

Power distribution – bus bars, cables, and lugs ⚡

Can I stack multiple lugs on each busbar terminal? There’s only 4 posts but I have more circuits!

Yes you can. It is intended that each bolt terminal can support up to 4 lugs providing the connection is tight. It is best practice to distribute all of your connections as evenly as possible across all of the terminal posts. For example if your bus bar has 4 terminal posts and you have 10 connections to make, the fist 2 posts should have 3 connections each and the last 2 posts should have 2 connections each.

I have more than 12 circuits, how do I connect more to my 12V distribution board?

Option 1.

Similar circuits can be combined, such as multiple USB sockets on the same circuit or lights grouped together. If you choose to do this, you simply need to add up the total current (A) in the circuit (for example: all of the lights). So long as the total current is less than any one cable is rated to, then it is safe to combine the circuits.

For example: Two 6A circuits with 1.5mm² / 16AWG cable would have a total current of 12A, and would require a 15A fuse. 1.5mm² / 16AWG cable is rated to 21A, and is therefore an appropriate choice. Voltage drop is worked out for each individual load, not for all loads on the same circuit unless they are sharing the same cable.

Option 2.

In some instances it may be easier to insert two cables into a single lug. However, if you do this, you need to ensure:

1. The fuse is large enough that it won’t blow when all connected appliances are in operation.
2. The fuse is smaller. than the current rating of the cable.

For reference, 2x 1.5mm² / 16AWG cables will it in one blue lug and 2x 3mm² / 14AWG cables will fit in a yellow lug.

My Switch Has 2 Outputs and Only 1 Input—Which Terminal Should I Use?

Understanding DC isolator switches with 2 outputs and 1 input

DC isolator switches with two outputs and one input are designed to offer flexibility when integrating subsystems into a larger system. In some setups, you may need to consolidate two DC cables from a subsystem into a single connection before connecting to busbars. These switches provide the option to combine those two outputs effectively.

Wiring the switch correctly

Most DC isolator switches label one side as “INPUT” and the other as “OUTPUT,” but these labels are primarily for convenience. The switch itself functions by simply breaking the connection between the two sides, meaning you can wire the switch in either direction—input to output or output to input—without affecting functionality.

However, it’s crucial to understand that you cannot connect one cable to the input terminal and another to the output terminal as if they were separate circuits. The switch is designed to break or make a single circuit connection, not to handle independent connections simultaneously. Doing so could cause malfunction or even damage to the system.

How do I lay out my system board and components?

Unfortunately this is a tricky question to provide a definitive answer because there is so much variation in the location components are installed. However, the below guidance (in best to worst order) might prove useful!

Approach 1. Surface mounted slotted trunking

The addition of this simple and cheap PVC slotted trunking makes cable management, retention easy. The plastic trunking can be mounted to a simple system board on the same face as your system components. The removable cap allows you to quickly create cable paths and hide your systems cabling once complete.

Pros

• Cheap and easy to install
• Professional finish
• Cable retention features built in

Cons

• Requires careful planning of where each component and trunking section will sit on the system board to ensure cabling is used efficiently

Approach 2. Cable routing panel

Often constructed from a single piece of wooden sheet, a router can be used to cut carefully positioned cable holes through the board to allow cables to pass from the front mounted components to the back of the board where they can be distributed out of sight.

Pros

• Can look smart

Cons

• Requires a router which may not otherwise be required for your project
• Although the front of the system board may look tidy, without careful planning the back can become a mess of cabling
• Maintaining and checking cable connections on the back of the board can be time consuming
• Time consuming process to achieve good results

Approach 3. “The Rats Nest”

This is certainly not our recommended approach, however it is ultimately how many systems function.

Pros

• Well…it’s quick!

Cons

• Cables can easily snag and be pulled out of position
• Can be hard to locate faults due to mess of overlapping cables

Finally, why not check out our customer case studies to see how fellow Nohma customers have designed their system board.

MultiPlus inverter/chargers 🔌

Do I need the MultiPlus temperature sensor?

The sensor measures the temperature of the batteries, providing real-time data to the MultiPlus system and is essential for maintaining efficient, safe, and reliable battery operation.

The installation of this component in your system is simple. The pre-crimped lug needs to be connected to the negative terminal of your leisure battery, the same terminal that connects to the negative bus bar. The other end of the cable needs to be inserted into the green terminal block named “TEMP” or “T-Sense”. The pin or ferrule connected to the black wire needs to go in the “-” (negative) and the red in the “+” (positive).

My MultiPlus has stopped working (AC loads are not working)

Your MultiPlus is protected against overload and will turn off if this occurs. This can often be fixed and AC power restored simply by turning the unit OFF and ON again using the dedicated switch on the inverter/charger. If a much larger load is connected than the specified VA (Volt-Amp) or W (wattage) rating of the inverter, it is possible that the external fuse could have blown, which should be checked. If this is not the case you should also check the AC breakers to see if one of these has been tripped.

My MultiPlus is not charging the batteries

The most frequent cause of a MultiPlus not charging is an issue with shore power. If your MultiPlus continues to show a single green light when plugged into shore power, please check the following:

• Is the unit turned ON?
• Are all switches in the incoming consumer unit in the up position?
• The MultiPlus has two black plugs, labeled AC-IN (male) and AC-OUT (female). Disconnect these plugs from the MultiPlus and connect them directly to each other, effectively bypassing the MultiPlus. Ensure you are connected to shore power for this test.

My Victron MultiPlus 500-1600VA inverter/charger and AC outlets are tripping, how do I diagnose the problem?

If your AC outlets are tripping, diagnosing the problem with your 500-1600 Victron MultiPlus is straightforward. The MultiPlus has two black plugs, labeled AC-IN (male) and AC-OUT (female). To troubleshoot, first disconnect these plugs from the MultiPlus and connect them directly to each other, effectively bypassing the MultiPlus. Ensure you are connected to shore power for this test. If the outlets still trip, the issue likely lies within your wiring between the shore inlet and the AC outlets.

If bypassing the MultiPlus resolves the tripping issue, it indicates a potential problem with the MultiPlus itself. While issues with the MultiPlus are rare, they can occur. In such cases, your engineer can assist you with a warranty claim. Remember, dealing with AC electrics can be dangerous and should only be carried out by a trained and competent professional.

MultiPlus inverter not working when off-grid.

This is often caused by the on product DIP switches either not being set or being set when the MultiPlus is not connected to the batteries resulting in the settings not being saved.

To resolve this:

1. Set the dip switches back to 1. (default) > turn inverter switch to ON. You should see a green light.
2. Next set dip switches as per your nohma install guide.
3. Finally store the settings by moving dip 6. OFF>ON>OFF. The inverter/charger and alarm LED will flash to indicate acceptance of settings.

Why is my lithium battery not charging properly with the MultiPlus?

If the MultiPlus settings aren’t configured during setup, it defaults to Storage Mode which limits charging to a low float voltage. Lithium batteries need a proper charge cycle to stay balanced and healthy. To fix it, open VEConfigure, set the battery type to Lithium, and disable Storage Mode. That should get things back on track.

Quattro inverter/chargers 🔌

My Quattro has stopped working (AC loads are not working)

Your Quattro is protected against overload and will turn off if this occurs. This can often be fixed and AC power restored simply by turning the unit OFF and ON again using the dedicated switch on the inverter/charger. If a much larger load is connected than the specified VA (Volt-Amp) or W (wattage) rating of the inverter, it is possible that the external fuse could have blown, which should be checked. If this is not the case you should also check the AC breakers to see if one of these has been tripped.

Inverters 🔌

My inverter has stopped working (AC loads are not working)

Your inverter is protected against overload and will turn off if this occurs. This can often be fixed and AC power restored simply by turning the unit OFF and ON again using the dedicated switch on the inverter. If a much larger load is connected than the specified VA (Volt-Amp) or W (wattage) rating of the inverter, it is possible that the inverter’s external fuse could have blown, which should be checked. If this is not the case you should also check the AC breakers to see if one of these has been tripped.

Smaller inverters which use a plug or outlet to connect the AC-OUT cables can wiggle loose when driving due to vibrations and subsequently stop AC appliances from working. Ensure the plug or outlet is fully inserted.

Consumer units and panelboards ⚡

How do I earth my consumer unit or panelboard?

Contrary to popular YouTube videos on the topic, you can and should earth your consumer unit or panelboard directly to the system bus bars. Wiring regulations are very clear about this. Those who believe otherwise are likely applying the logic used in a domestic setting to that of a vehicle, which is not correct. Unfortunately, content on YouTube by self proclaimed “experts” is often completely wrong and they simply aren’t qualified to make the content they produce and are responsible for misleading thousands of people.

If you have two consumer units that need earthing, you can either run two separate earth cables from the consumer unit earth bus bar to the negative busbar or you can “link” the consumer units together with a single earth cable and then run a single earth cable back to the system negative bus bar. Our team is BS 7671 qualified so are able to provide accurate guidance on confusing topics such as this.

Fuses and circuit breakers 🧨

How do I know if a fuse has blown?

The invasive and not recommended method is to remove the protective plastic cover from the fuse. This makes it clear if the fuse is blown, but if it is not, the fuse is left vulnerable to damage.

Thankfully, there are several non-destructive methods to check a fuse. They are quick, so we would advise using both methods to be sure.

Use a multimeter to measure voltage

1. Turn off the circuit.
2. Turn the multimeter on and set it to the appropriate DC voltage range, for 12V systems use 20V, 24V use 50V and for 48V use 100V.
3. Insert the black probe into the COM (common) port and the red probe into the V (voltage) port on the multimeter.
4. Switch the power back on to the circuit.
5. Place the black probe on the ground or a known good ground point.
6. Place the red probe on one end of the fuse and take note of the voltage reading.
7. Move the red probe to the other end of the fuse and note the voltage reading.
8. Interpret the results:
   • If both ends of the fuse show the same voltage, the fuse is not blown.
   • If one end shows a voltage and the other end shows zero or no voltage, the fuse is blown.

Perform a continuity test

1. Turn off the power to the circuit.
2. Remove the fuse from the circuit if possible.
3. Set the multimeter to continuity mode or the lowest ohms setting.
4. Insert the black probe into the COM (common) port and the red probe into the V (voltage) port.
5. Touch the multimeter probes together to ensure it’s working (it should beep or show a low resistance value).
6. Place one probe on each end of the fuse.
7. Listen for a beep or check the resistance value:
8. Beep or low resistance (close to 0 ohms): The fuse is good.
9. No beep or high resistance (infinity or OL): The fuse is blown.

If your system uses an ANL fuse, these often include a small “viewing window” to check if the fuse is blown or not.

This is arguably one of our most common questions, so you’re not alone in wondering, “where are the screws for my switch?” Unfortunately, BlueSea doesn’t include fixings for their switches for the same reason we also don’t include them in our systems: there are simply too many methods of mounting the switch to a wide variety of materials and depths. Similarly, IKEA furniture doesn’t provide fixings to mount items to walls because this needs to be determined on a case-by-case basis.

We share your frustration with this; it’s just hard to provide the right solution without asking a lot more questions during the enquiry process.

Grounding ⚡

Grounding your electrical system is incredibly important and unless your installation guide and wiring diagram state otherwise, the following process should be followed.

1. Clean a metal area on the chassis to ensure a good connection.
2. Attaching a chassis ground bolt and tighten securely.
3. Next, use the earth cable indicated in your wiring diagram to attach the negative bus bar to the chassis ground terminal.
4. Ensure all metal components that require grounding are connected to this common grounding point or the negative bus bar to create a unified ground system.

Contrary to popular YouTube videos on the topic, you can and should earth your consumer unit or panelboard directly to the systems bus bars. Wiring regulations are very clear about this. Those that believe otherwise are likely applying the logic used in a domestic setting to that of a vehicle, which is not correct.

Unfortunately, content on YouTube by self proclaimed “experts” is often completely wrong and has resulted in thousands of people being misled on this and many other topics. Our team is BS 7671 qualified and hold numerous engineer qualifications so are able to provide accurate guidance on confusing topics such as this.

Can the AC and DC be ground to the same busbar, I read somewhere that this isn’t allowed?

It’s a common misconception that AC and DC grounds should be kept separate due to the different nature of the current flow. In reality its common practice to connect AC and DC grounds to a single terminal. It’s actually impossible to electrically separate the grounds and still ground each one, as to properly ground any device it must be connect to chassis ground. So, regardless of if you connect and one point or two, they would still be electrically connected.

The reason that we can connect AC and DC ground connections without one interfering with the other, is that these lines only ever carry current under fault conditions. If for example, you shared a busbar for AC neutral and DC negative, the two circuits would greatly interfere with each other, as they are both current carrying. But, ground connections are only there provide a low resistance path for fault currents to flow, if for example, the casing malfunctioning device became electrically charged.

Appliances 📻

My appliance or product won’t run on my inverter

If your appliance won’t run on your inverter, please ensure that the inverter’s power rating (in watts) meets or exceeds the power requirement of your appliance. Note that the rating of a Victron inverter is given in VA (volt amps), which in some instances is different to watts. For example, the Victron 3000VA inverter is rated to output a constant wattage of 2400W. Additionally, some appliances, particularly those with motors or compressors, require a higher starting (surge) power than their running power, which your inverter must support.

How do I wire a 12V tap and pump

A 12V tap works as a built-in switch: when the tap is opened, it sends power to the submersible pump so water flows through. Wire the positive feed from the distribution board to the tap and then on to the pump, with the negative from the pump returning directly to the distribution board.

Commissioning and maintenance 🛠️

Who can sign off my electrical system as being safe? What accreditation or qualification is required?

It is generally recommended to have your campervan electrical system inspected by a qualified professional through a “Habitation Check.” This check is akin to an MOT for campers and is covered under the Approved Workshop Scheme (AWS). Additionally, you can request an Electrical Installation Condition Report (EICR), which provides a comprehensive evaluation. While accreditations may vary, any reputable electrician should readily provide their specific qualifications.

However, it’s important to exercise caution. Although there are many “qualified” individuals capable of inspecting electrical systems, this does not guarantee they possess an in-depth understanding of campervan electrical systems. These systems are often more complex than standard household electrics, requiring specialised knowledge and expertise.

In the United States, it is recommended to have your RV electrical system inspected by a qualified professional through a comprehensive RV inspection. Additionally, you can obtain an Electrical Safety Inspection, which provides a thorough evaluation of your RV electrical systems. While certifications may vary, any reputable electrician should be able to provide their specific qualifications.

Monitoring and control systems 🎛️

Do I need the battery monitor temperature sensor?

A temperature sensor for a Victron battery monitor, such as the BMV, measures the temperature of the batteries to provide accurate real-time data for temperature compensation during charging. This is important because it ensures optimal charging performance, prevents battery overheating, and extends the overall lifespan of the batteries.

The installation of this component in your system is simple. The pre-crimped lug needs to be connected to the positive terminal of your leisure battery, the same terminal that connects to the positive bus bar. The other end of the cable needs to be inserted into the green terminal block on the battery monitor. The pin or ferrule connected to the black wire needs to go in the “-” (negative) and the red in the “+” (positive).

The default 6 six zero (000000) PIN does not let me connect to the Victron Connect App

Victron is currently transitioning away from using the 000000 default PIN, and will instead start to include a unique code printed on a small slip of paper in the product box… No doubt this will be easily lost so, if the default code does not work and you cannot find a slip of paper with the unique code, please use the on-product PUK code to reset the PIN.

My battery monitor temperature sensor has stopped working

The inline fuse holder on the temperature sensor cable houses a cartridge fuse which can be easily damaged if subjected to excessive vibration or force. To check the fuse, simply unscrew the black two part holder and check the thin metal wire inside the fuse is intact.

If this does not resolve the problem, you should next check the temperature sensor cable connection at the battery and shunt terminal. Excessive vibration caused when driving on unpaved or bumpy roads us often responsible for even the strongest connections wiggling loose.

My BMV screen has stopped working

The VE.Direct cable that joins the shunt and the BMV screen is notorious for falling out, which results in the screen turning off and displaying no information. If you find this happens often, it might be worth adding a cable guide close to the BMV screen to help retain the cable’s position.

How do I reset or change the Victron Connect bluetooth PIN?

Connect to the Device:

• Ensure that Bluetooth is enabled on your device.
• In the app, locate and select your Victron Energy device to establish a connection.

Access Device Settings:

• Once connected, navigate to the device settings. This can typically be found by selecting the gear icon or the three dots in the top right corner of the app interface.

Reset the PIN:

• In the device settings menu, look for an option labeled ‘Reset PIN’ or ‘Security’.
• Select this option and follow the prompts to reset your PIN. You may need to enter the current PIN for verification purposes.

Set a New PIN:

• After resetting, you will be prompted to set a new PIN. Enter a new 4-digit PIN and confirm it.
• Make sure to choose a PIN that is easy to remember but hard for others to guess.

Save Changes:

• Once the new PIN is set, save the changes. Your device may automatically disconnect and reconnect to apply the new security settings.

Test the New PIN:

• Disconnect from the device and then try reconnecting using the new PIN to ensure it has been successfully reset.

Cerbo GX 📟

MultiPlus Grid Loss warnings showing on Cerbo GX screen

This happens when the voltage or frequency of the AC voltage supply drops below a certain threshold. The mains AC voltage supply gets temporarily rejected by the MultiPlus and it starts inverting to maintain the power supply inside your van until the shore power supply recovers. You normally don’t need to worry about this error message as it indicates a problem on the supply side. To resolve this, try connecting to a different power supply (not just a different socket in the same location) to see if this resolves the issue.

Remote access and smart networking 📡

How do I monitor my B2B performance using a GX device like a Cerbo?

The older style battery to battery chargers, referred to as the “Orion”, don’t have VE.Direct connectivity. However, the power being generated from these chargers can be inferred by turning the “DC system” function ON in the Cerbo/VRM Portal settings. This can be achieved through the following process:

1. On the GX Touch screen or VRM Portal dashboard, navigate to the DC system section.
2. Look for the status indicators or detailed information related to the DC system.
3. Ensure that the DC system shows a status of “On” or “Active.”
4. Verify that the voltage and current readings are within expected ranges, indicating the system is operational.

For the new Victron battery to battery chargers, referred to as the “Orion XS”, have built-in VE.Direct functionality. They can simply be connected to your GX device via the supplied cable, allowing their performance to be monitored in real-time.

System upgrades and expansion ↔️

Can I add components / upgrade my electrical system?

Yes… here comes the but.

This is completely dependent on what your looking to expand but in most instances every change in a system has a knock on effect elsewhere. Thankfully it’s easy for our Nohma team to load your system in our database, calculate the change and see how it affects your system. Just drop your engineer an email or fill out a quick enquiry here.

Can I use other appliances in my system that I didn’t previously mention?

Maybe! To build your system as cost effectively as possible, we try to use the next closest inverter or inverter/charger to your maximum combined power usage. Sometimes this means there are hundreds of watts free to use, or conversely there could be only a few. If you are confident in the advertised wattage of your appliance and it’s below that of your inverter, it should work just fine, providing you don’t have other appliances running at the same time.

We design our systems to trip without harm if you exceed the inverters maximum wattage. However, in some instances this may result in blowing a fuse, so please speak to your engineer first if you are unsure.